Dill

Anethum graveolens

Dill is an annual herb in the carrot family whose feathery leaves and aromatic fruits, sold as dill seed, both earn their place in the kitchen. Vaughan and Geissler place its origin in southern Europe and western Asia and note that the fruits show up in pickled cucumbers, dill vinegar, bread, and potatoes.¹ The plant grows one to four feet tall with finely divided, fennel-like leaves, and it is easy to grow from seed in full sun, which makes it a practical herb for Northeast gardens and farms.¹²

The flavor of dill comes largely from D-carvone, the same terpene that dominates caraway, with citrusy limonene as its other major volatile.³ Leaves and fruits taste different enough to be treated as separate seasonings: the leaf is bright and grassy, while the seed is warmer and more resinous, and it is the fruits, not the leaves, that give pickling brine its signature flavor.¹

Dill’s Northeast story is really the story of the kosher dill pickle. Eastern European Jewish immigrants brought the garlic-and-dill cucumber pickle to New York in the late nineteenth century, and by the early twentieth century the Lower East Side’s Essex Street was known as Pickle Alley, with dozens of pushcart and storefront vendors selling brine-cured pickles from wooden barrels.⁴ Guss’ Pickles and, later, The Pickle Guys carried the tradition forward, and the same salt-water-dill-garlic brine shows up throughout this notebook’s lacto-fermented cabbage work.⁴